One Month In
Today marks four full weeks on the trail, in this time I've covered 352 miles of trail. I am really starting to get my trail legs, generally I would wake up, start walking and more or less zone out, showing up somewhere fifteen miles away later that day. That's not to say I don't see anything it's more equivalent to just floating along enjoying the small moments but not really thinking much about the larger scope of the day or whatever aches and pains are hanging around.
This week would take me from Hot Springs to Erwin entirely inside what are known as the Bald Mountains. This namesake is given for the numerous open balds which first started when we entered this range at Snowbird Mountain.
Hot Springs was a wonderful community which was tough to leave. The exit was made harder by the climb up to lovers leap rock. On our way out of town we also had a chance to see the French Broad River up close. Not only is it a pretty river but it is also the third oldest river in the world.
Not long after the climb the weather went south alternating between rain and hail. This drove everyone into the first shelter and gave me a welcome excuse to nap away the evening.
This would set up my first stretch of bubble life. For the next few days the shelters were perfectly spaced so we shelter hopped. This meant seeing the same folks throughout the day and at night which can be a welcome relief on a tough stretch or at the end of a long day. Many folks are staying put for a day in Erwin while I move on but they become part of the ever revolving cast of characters that come and go as I move north. I may not see these folks for days or weeks but I definitely will see them again.
The next morning we woke to our coldest morning yet but clearing skies promised a good weather day. The first few miles of trail were pleasant green tunnel that cruised by thanks to lots of sleep the night before. The first notable sight of the day was Moms, which was sadly closed on Sunday.
The trail then began a long and steady climb to Camp Creek Bald. The climb flew by thanks to the the Greenville Hiking Club letting us know there was hot food at the top. A welcome carrot since despite climbing all that way we never actually hit the summit.
This group does a yearly event where they take over a meadow and feed hikers breakfast, lunch and dinner for three days. We were greeted with burgers and a buffet of home cooked sides and desserts. The generosity was amazing and the appreciation from hikers was genuine. It was yet another example of the trail bringing out the best in everyone.
With full stomachs we set off to finish the last five miles of the day. The trail would take us across a technical scramble of rocks on a ridge line offering a challenge and stunning views.
The trail is currently on the western edge of the Blue Ridge Mountains and looking west is like looking over a cliff into the Great Appalachian Valley.
The next day was similar to the last. We began our day by climbing Big Butt Mountain, needless to say the jokes were made when we found this rock at the summit.
The summit also included many open fields offering pretty views. This area continued to have much more sign of human hands including old barb wire fence and many old roads meandering through the woods.
The day would end with a long climb a pretty valley with a cascade flowing through it. After a long climb we were greeted with a view of the ridge we would be traversing the next day. This was only possible because we had in fact been traveling south for most of the climb, after this view the trail spun around and got going the right way again.
That ridge would take us up to Big Bald, the tallest mountain in the Bald Range. Overnight we got some rain but for the first time it was less than promised. The next day began cloudy but dry which was good enough for us hikers. The climb to the bald was a slow process but a beautiful one.
We were first greeted with another open meadow offering us a closer assessment of the hike ahead. On the slopes of the peak itself the forest changed, most of the trees were not leafed out yet but the floor was green and covered in flowers.
The peak itself was socked in offering a beautiful and mildly eerie scene. Just off the peak there was a moment of feeling like you were trapped between cloud layers.
After descending the bald it was back to the green tunnel until I began the drop into Erwin this morning. There were several gorgeous views of the Nolichucky River.
Tomorrow takes me into a new range of mountains and soon after the Roan Highlands which will take the trail back up over 5,000 feet for a stretch. It's been one month and some of the biggest excitement has worn off but looking forward the next section of trail still gets me eager to get hiking. And for as big as this trail is, it really is the million smaller moments that really make up the story.