Settling in...
Leaving Franklin and returning to the trail had a different feeling this time. There was a feeling of this being the real start. I had pushed through the first state and the first hundred miles but there were thirteen states and 2,000 plus miles to do. This was a mostly exciting feeling but also more than a little daunting. The day out began with a sketchy (but fun) shuttle ride with nine other hikers. After being dropped off it was a matter of settling back into a hard climb with a heavy pack.
The day started with a steady climb from Winding Stair Gap to Siler Bald. Siler was off trail but offered a beautiful view of the peak from the trail. From there the trail began a slow steady climb to Wyah Bald one of the highest peaks in the North Carolina highlands. Along the way you passed Wilson Lick ranger station the first ranger station in Nantahala National Forest. That night I settled in to camp just below Wyah Bald at nearly 5.000 feet of elevation.
Later that evening the threatening storm moved in and would define the next three days on trail. Early in the evening high winds blew all around camp and lightening bounced off Wyah Bald. This was the biggest storm yet and was quite intense but also fun.
The next morning awoke to steady rain that would last most of the day Sunday. I pushed on and made eight miles but set camp early hardly being able to move in the mud. This meant passing Wyah Bald without a view to be had, it still was quite an interesting spot.
The next morning dawned cold and soaked but sunshine was working its way through. It would be an on again off again day offering occasional bright spots. Right out of camp Rock Bald offered a small carrot to keep pushing.
This day would involve some extra miles to make up for the short day yesterday. I went through the Nantahala gorge which was the longest drop on the trail yet, going from roughly 4,500 feet to 1,700 feet in about five miles. The ridge you have been following since Weser Bald (another socked in summit) quite literally ends in what is known as the Jumpoff.
Thankfully the Nantahala Outdoor Center is in the gorge offering a full service stop, many people quit the day here to dry out from the rain. Foolishly, after a burger and beers I pushed on repeating the descent in reverse climbing up to over 4,000 feet and making camp. My reward for pushing the extra five miles was a solo camp and amazing sunset that I couldn't quite capture through the trees.
The next morning dawned cold and damp again, making three in a row and making it a tough start. I crawled over Stecoah Bald enjoying yet another nonview thanks to living in the clouds. I had now passed every major summit since Mt. Albert without a view, only catching glimpses on the smaller peaks.
But the lesson of the day was make the best of it. The woods were spooky and weird with all the fog.
And throughout the day it gradually cleared. Another curious development was seeing the advance of spring after being at 4,000-5,000 feet for nearly a week. After descending into Stecoah Gap the world suddenly became green again having advanced sharply since we left the relatively low lands of Georgia. The sun also returned in full force making for a wonderful afternoon (despite a really hard section of trail).
This day would find me settled in my favorite camp yet at Cody Gap. The valley was covered in blooming trillium and mayapple making for a gorgeous view.
The next morning offered an "easy" nine mile hike into Fontana Village another major mental milestone of the trail. The morning dawned clear and beautiful with gorgeous views into the valley.
Fontana Village is at the foot of the Fontana Dam and the southern entrance to Grat Smoky Miuntains National Park. Tonight is a hotel and reset before a seven day hike to Hot Springs.
This five day stretch was a needed introduction to the rough side of this hike. Rain and wet that hung around for days making your pack heavier and everything harder. Climbs that seemed nearly impossible. And trail miles that felt like a mobeous strip of trees and hills. But pushing on and making progress is all that can be done. Missing the first five views of the big mountains stinks but I'm headed to the smokies which are even bigger and the weather seems to be mostly clear for the next week.
This is the first stretch where I dug in and pushed miles just to say I pushed miles and got closer to Maine, but it won't be the last. And at the end of the rough stretch the sun came back and offered stunning views. If nothing else coming into to town and swapping tales of woe with fellow hikers over beers makes all the hardship fade and reminds me why I'm doing this. Tomorrow starts the smokies, some of the biggest peaks yet and the 2,000 mile mark is only a day away.